Climbing Guide Prerequisites

 Climbing Guide Prerequisites

To apply for a place on the Climbing Guide Pathway, you must present for consideration to the NZMGA Training Officer a mountaineering resume that meets the following minimum international standard. This is to set a solid base of personal mountaineering skills, knowledge and experience from which to launch a guides training pathway.


Technical:
·       Completed a minimum of three seasons’ active mountaineering in both winter and summer.
·       Have logged routes as below.
These routes must be serious alpine undertakings with you in a leadership or shared leadership role. Your log should show whom you climbed with and when you climbed the route (contact addresses may be required for verification). Some overseas routes are acceptable.

Minimum 10 Mixed Snow/ice Routes
·       that include ascents of major NZ peaks, five of which must be over 3000m, and include the following (Logan/Aoraki Mt Cook) grades:

  • 5 x Grade 3 
  • 3 x Grade 4
  • 2 x Grade 5 (must include 1 x snow/ice route, 1 x alpine rock route)

Minimum 10 Alpine Rock Routes
·       Crux Grade 12/13 Ewbank
·      Approx 10 pitches (
a ‘pitch’ is not necessarily a rope length) or around 250 m vertical .

The route can be either in mountain boots or a combination of mountain boots and rock shoes
Descent is preferably by another route and not a continuous rap descent.

(The resume should display to the TO that the candidate is capable of alpine rock climbing to a reasonable standard and has the alpine rock skills and knowledge to efficiently travel on a multipitch, sustained alpine rock route).

  • Examples of NZ alpine rock areas include:
    • The Darran Mountains, Fiordland
    • The Remarkables 
    • Chinamans Bluff, Dart Valley
    • Temple Valley, Ohau
    • Ben Ohau Range, inclu Twin Streams
    • Fox Neve Routes
    • Balfour
    • Mt Temple/buttress area, Arthurs Pass

Minimum 3 multi-pitch Ice Climbing Routes of Grade WI 3/4.

  • Ice Climbing could be in locations such as:
    • Black Peak, Wye Creek, Bush Stream, Arrowsmith Range, Temple Basin Arthurs Pass, Fox Neve, Hooker Valley, Homer Tunnel region

General logged Resumé of:

  • Multipitch rockclimbing minimum 18/19 Ewbank (if not included in above routes)
  • Any Overseas Expeditions or Climbing 
  • Other relevant Alpine climbing/training

Other

  • Be at least 18 years old when your course starts
  • New Zealand resident or have a current work permit.
  • Current Pre Hospital Emergency Care Certificate (40 hr) or equivalent.
  • Avalanche Course Stage 1 Certificate or its overseas equivalent.
  • Paid a $500 deposit to the NZMGA.
  • Current Medical Certificate of fitness

Download Application Form Here
Log Book Exemplar Here