Climbing Guide Level 1 Course
This course combines teaching and assessment. It assesses your potential to be a Climbing Guide
Before being accepted on this course you must have:
- Passed the 1 day Rockclimbing examination.
- Completed the 4 Day Rock Guiding Training Course
- Have a positive recommendation from the 6 day Snow and Ice Guide Training Course
Trainers/assessors and Level 2 participants will coach specific guiding methods and techniques. You should use every opportunity to improve your personal mountaineering and learn and practise the guiding skills.
During the second part of the course (usually after the mid-course debrief) you will be expected to show that you have started to develop an understanding of guiding techniques and have sufficient amateur climbing skills to integrate these techniques into simulated guiding assignments.
Weather or delays in the programme may alter the teaching / assessment balance. Allowances will be made for improvement before the final marking and not all topics may be assessed.
Participants may be assessed on any topic of the Climbing Guides’ syllabus at any stage of the course, and will be required to teach and supervise revision sessions and practical exercises.
Location, timing, and length:
A Climbing Guides Course may include participants at Level 1 and Level 2.
The course will take place in one of the high alpine areas of the Southern Alps. Typical venues are Aoraki/Mt Cook, Westland, Mount Aspiring, and the Darrans.
Climbing Guides Courses are usually run over 14 days in early December.
As an Assistant Climbing Guide, you should be competent to safely guide a client on straightforward ascents.
Teaching and group management skills should be adequate for you to work on climbing instruction courses under indirect supervision.
Your technical climbing and rope skills should be at a very good standard.
Before attending this course ensure you have read and are familiar with:
Terrain, Supervision & Professional Guidelines
Assessment on NZMGA Courses
Course Advice and Preliminary Information
Analysis of Topics
Syllabus and Marking Schedule
Climbing Guide Level 1 & Level 2
Topic / Possible Mark & comments (See Analysis of Topics)
|1 Trip preparation and planning||10|
|2 Communication with client||10|
|3 Route selection||20|
|4 Terrain analysis||20|
|5 Pace setting||10|
|6 Cooking and camp management||10|
|7 Shelters and bivouacs||10|
|8 Application of guiding technique||20|
|9 Group management||10|
|11 Client control||20|
|12 Client safety||20|
Personal skills and knowledge:
|13 General mountain movement||10|
|14 Fitness and stamina||10|
|15 Professionalism and personal appearance||10|
|16 Personal equipment||5|
|17 Reaction under stress||10|
|18 Leadership and decision making||10|
|19 Rope handling||10|
|20 Rock climbing||20|
|21 Belays on rock||10|
|22 Snow and ice climbing||20|
|23 Step cutting||5|
|24 Belays on snow and ice||10|
|26 Snow safety skills||20|
|27 Mountain weather||10|
|28 Nature and environment||10|
|31 Speech and contact with students||10|
|32 Structure of the lesson||10|
|33 Site selection||10|
|34 Support material and demonstration||10|
|35 Ability to motivate||10|
Search and Rescue:
|36 Improvised cliff rescue||10|
|37 Crevasse extraction||10|
|39 Avalanche rescue and transceivers||10|
Mandatory non-assessment topics:
These topics must be covered in a discussion format
• Radio use
• Aircraft safety
• Post-traumatic stress disorder
• NZMGA Harassment Policy
• NZMGA Accident Investigation Policy
• NZMGA Terrain, Supervision and Professional Guidelines.
Trainers/assessors will give a full summary with comments and recommendations.