Climbing Guide Level 1 Course

This course combines teaching and assessment. It assesses your potential to be a Climbing Guide

Before being accepted on this course you must have:
- Passed the 1 day Rockclimbing examination.
- Completed the 4 Day Rock Guiding Training Course
- Have a positive recommendation from the 6 day Snow and Ice Guide Training Course

Course Overview:
Trainers/assessors and Level 2 participants will coach specific guiding methods and techniques. You should use every opportunity to improve your personal mountaineering and learn and practise the guiding skills.

During the second part of the course (usually after the mid-course debrief) you will be expected to show that you have started to develop an understanding of guiding techniques and have sufficient amateur climbing skills to integrate these techniques into simulated guiding assignments.

Weather or delays in the programme may alter the teaching / assessment balance. Allowances will be made for improvement before the final marking and not all topics may be assessed.

Participants may be assessed on any topic of the Climbing Guides’ syllabus at any stage of the course, and will be required to teach and supervise revision sessions and practical exercises.

Location, timing, and length:
A Climbing Guides Course may include participants at Level 1 and Level 2.

The course will take place in one of the high alpine areas of the Southern Alps. Typical venues are Aoraki/Mt Cook, Westland, Mount Aspiring, and the Darrans.

Climbing Guides Courses are usually run over 14 days in early December.

Competence level:
As an Assistant Climbing Guide, you should be competent to safely guide a client on straightforward ascents.
Teaching and group management skills should be adequate for you to work on climbing instruction courses under indirect supervision.
Your technical climbing and rope skills should be at a very good standard.

Before attending this course ensure you have read and are familiar with
Terrain, Supervision & Professional Guidelines
Assessment on NZMGA Courses
Course Advice and Preliminary Information
Technical Syllabus
Analysis of Topics

Syllabus and Marking Schedule
Climbing Guide Level 1 & Level 2

Topic / Possible Mark & comments (See Analysis of Topics)

Client care:

1    Trip preparation and planning            10
2    Communication with client  10
3    Route selection                                      20
4    Terrain analysis                                      20
5    Pace setting                                           10
6    Cooking and camp management      10
7    Shelters and bivouacs                         10
8    Application of guiding technique        20
9    Group management                            10
11    Client control                                        20
12    Client safety                                         20
Subtotal 160

Personal skills and knowledge:

13    General mountain movement        10
14    Fitness and stamina                      10
15    Professionalism and personal  appearance                             10
16    Personal equipment                          5
17    Reaction under stress                    10
18    Leadership and decision making    10
19    Rope handling                                10
20    Rock climbing                                    20
21    Belays on rock                               10
22    Snow and ice climbing                   20
23    Step cutting                                       5
24    Belays on snow and ice                 10
25    Navigation                                      10
26    Snow safety skills                           20
27    Mountain weather                          10
28    Nature and environment                10
Subtotal 180


31    Speech and contact with students    10
32    Structure of the lesson                      10
33    Site selection                                     10
34    Support material and demonstration 10
35    Ability to motivate                              10
Subtotal   50

Search and Rescue:

36    Improvised cliff rescue                      10
37    Crevasse extraction                          10
38    Stretchers                                          10
39    Avalanche rescue and transceivers   10
Subtotal 40

Mandatory non-assessment topics:
These topics must be covered in a discussion format

• Radio use
• Aircraft safety
• Post-traumatic stress disorder
• NZMGA Harassment Policy
• NZMGA Accident Investigation Policy
• NZMGA Terrain, Supervision and Professional Guidelines.

Final comments:
Trainers/assessors will give a full summary with comments and recommendations.