Hard Ice Guide Assessment (4 days)
Participants may be assessed on any topic of the Hard Ice Guide training syllabus at any stage of the assessment. They will be required to teach and supervise revision sessions and practical exercises.
It is expected that only minimal training will need to be given.
Participants will be assessed on their personal technical skills necessary for guiding and instructing on the lower, hard ice glacial areas.
Participants’ guiding and instructional skills will be assessed to see that they will be effective guides and instructors for:
Half or full day walking trips and helihikes on lower hard ice glacial areas
Ice climbing days on lower, hard ice glacial areas.
To be allocated a place on a Hard Ice Guide Assessment Course, you must have met the following criteria:
- New Zealand resident or have a current work permit.
- 100 days guiding work (over at least two seasons) at time of Assesssment on lower hard ice glacial areas under the supervision of an NZMGA Hard Ice, Climb or IFMGA Guide (signed by supervisor/s). (15 of these days must be under the direct supervision of an NZMGA Hard Ice, Climb or IFMGA Mountain Guide).
- A letter of verification from the employer or Chief Guide of the 100 days logged guiding work at time of assessment must be submitted with the application. The Association may also request that the written logbook retained by the applicant be presented for sighting and examination.
- Current Pre Hospital Emergency Care Qualification.
- Attendance on a Hard Ice Guide Training Course within the last two years.
- Hard Ice Guide Training Course
This course is run ’in house’ as part of a glacier guiding company’s staff training.
The training is in the techniques necessary for safe and efficient guiding of walking parties on the lower hard ice areas of glaciers. It is recommended that all subjects in the Hard Ice Guide training syllabus are be covered and individual reports written certifying that this has been done.
This course does not give right of membership to NZMGA but is the first step in training towards NZMGA Hard Ice Guide status and membership.
On successfully passing a Hard Ice Guide Assessment Course and ratification from the Technical Subcommittee, the participant attains the status of NZMGA Hard Ice Guide.
Location, timing, and length:
Usually, this will be run over four days in spring or autumn
Please read the following sections before you attend this course:
|2 Communication with client||10|
|3 Route selection||20|
|4 Terrain analysis||20|
|5 Pace setting||10|
|8 Application of guiding technique||10|
|9 Group management||10|
|11 Client control||20|
|12 Client safety||20|
Personal skills and knowledge
|13 General mountain movement||10|
|14 Fitness and stamina||10|
|15 Professionalism and
|16 Personal equipment||10|
|17 Reaction under stress||10|
|18 Leadership and decision making||10|
|19 Rope handling||10|
|22 Ice climbing||10|
|23 Step cutting||20|
|24 Belays on ice including anchors||10|
|27 Mountain Weather||10|
|28 Nature and environment||20|
|31 Speech and contact with students||10|
|32 Structure of the lesson||10|
|33 Site selection||10|
|34 Support materials & demonstration||10|
|35 Ability to motivate|
Search and rescue
|37 Crevasse extraction||10|
|40 Accident site management||10|
Mandatory non-assessment topics - These must be covered in a discussion format.
- Radio use
- Aircraft safety
- Post-traumatic stress disorder
- NZMGA Harassment Policy
- NZMGA Accident Investigation Policy
- NZMGA Professional, Supervision and Terrain Guidelines
Course total 340
Final comments - Trainers/assessors will give a full summary with comments and recommendations.