Snow and Ice Guide Training Course

This guides' training course is to take solid amateur mountaineering skills and knowledge and teach the candidate how to change/modify techniques, skills and knowledge into professional mountain and ski guiding techniques, skills and knowledge.

Duration: 6 days

Note: From 1 October 2015 the Snow and Ice Guide Training Course will become a seven (7) day course and include a 1-day River Crossing Course.
Crevasse rescue with dynamic rope
Glacier travel with client(s)
Snow and Ice guiding anchors; equalization; belay techniques, appropriate application of.
Shortroping 1, 2 and 3 clients on snow
Short pitching/pitching on snow
Cramponing equipment including ice axe/hammer
Step cutting/stance making
Snow and ice climbing technique
Hut management, cooking, hygiene
Trip planning
Client safety in the alpine environment/personal safety
Emergency procedures/issues for alpine environment
Mountain weather
Navigation and route planning
Application of guiding technique and decision making
Impromptu Formal Lecture Presentation

General assessment of the candidate's overall mountaineering skills will be done. A positive recommendation for their particular pathway is required for the candidate to be able to progress to their appropriate Level 1 guides course.

Possible locations:
Barron Saddle
Fox Glacier area
Franz Josef Glacier area
Tasman Saddle area
Plateau area
Bonar Glacier area

A Suggested Gear List Link

 Snow and Ice Guide Training Course Full Syllabus

Crevasse Rescue With Dynamic Rope

Unassisted Prusik

Holding the Fall/Slide

Drop loop assisted hoist

Drop loop unassisted

Non drop loop hoist eg 6:1

Glacier Travel With Client(s)

Guide - how much rope to carry

Appropriateness of coils

Tying off coils

Knots in rope

Client brief and communications

Snow & Ice Guiding Anchors

Fast equilisation methods

Belay techniques

Appropriate application

Shortroping 1, 2 & 3 Clients On Snow

Guide on end of rope - inline method

Guide on end of rope - independent 'V' method

Guide in middle of rope

Hand wrap

Figure 8 handle

Disappearing handle

Using cow's tail/daisy chain and clipping into figure 8 for glacier shortroping

Short Pitching/Pitching On Snow & Ice
Equipment For Guiding

Snow stakes


Ice axe/hammer

Step Cutting & Route Preparation

Single line up and down

Double cut up and down

Stance making

Step plugging, reinforced steps, steps the night before

Snow & Ice Climbing Technique

French technique considerations when guiding, especially short roping

Hut Management

Working around other users

Cooking & presentation standards


Trip Planning
Client Safety In The Alpine Environment
Personal Safety
Communication With Client

Client equipment checklists

Guide equipment checklists


Encouragement, being assertive when appropriate eg retreat

Emergency Procedures

Communication device options - strengths and weaknesses

Issues for alpine environment eg weather

Shelters & bivouacs

Mountain Weather


Field observations

Expected level of knowledge/understanding for a guide


Efficient use of map and compass

Use of GPS for guiding

Navigation plan

Route Planning

Application Of Guiding Techniques

Decision making


Centennial Hut
Centennial Hut
Guiding on the Rudolph
Guiding on the Rudolph
Hut Life Skills
Hut Life Skills
Shortroping on the Rudolph
Shortroping on the Rudolph
Chancellor Hut
Chancellor Hut