Level 2 Climbing Assessment Course
Participants may be assessed on any topic of the Climbing Guide syllabus at any stage of the course and will be required to teach and supervise revision sessions and practical exercises.
It is expected that only minimal training will need to be given in any topic.
A Climbing Guides Course may include participants at Level 1 and Level 2. Level 2 participants are expected to have a sound knowledge of climbing guiding techniques and to be able to teach the techniques to participants on their Level 1 Course.
Level 2 participants will be assessed on their:
- General mountaineering and technical rock and ice climbing.
- Application and teaching of guiding techniques in a lead guide role.
- Leadership roles in team situations and ability to provide quality feedback to other course participants.
The competence of successful NZMGA Climbing Guides should be such that they can guide efficiently on at least grade 4+ routes and be able to direct climbing instruction courses in alpine and/or glaciated terrain.
If this is the final IFMGA course, the participant should be considered a worthy NZMGA ambassador to any IFMGA country.
STATUS
On successfully passing a Climbing Guide Level 2 Course and ratification by the Technical Subcommittee, the participant attains the status of NZMGA Climbing Guide.
To be allocated a place on a Climbing Guides Level 2 Course, you must have met the following criteria:
- New Zealand resident or have a current work permit.
- Have completed the Climbing Guide Apprenticeship.
A written record or logbook must be presented on application as proof that experience and supervision requirements have been met.
- Avalanche Course Level 2.
- Current PHEC qualification (40 hours).
- Current financial membership of NZMGA or other IFMGA membership country.
- The course will take place in one of the high alpine areas of the Southern Alps. Typical venues are Aoraki/Mt Cook, Westland, Mount Aspiring, and the Darrans.
- Climbing Guides Courses are usually run over 14 days in early December.
TOPIC / POSSIBLE MARK & COMMENTS
Client care | ||
---|---|---|
Subtotal | 160 | |
1 | Trip preparation and planning | 10 |
2 | Communication with client | 10 |
3 | Route selection | 20 |
4 | Terrain analysis | 20 |
5 | Pace setting | 10 |
6 | Cooking and camp management | 10 |
7 | Shelters and bivouacs | 10 |
8 | Application of guiding technique | 20 |
9 | Group management | 10 |
11 | Client control | 20 |
12 | Client safety | 20 |
Subtotal | 180 | |
---|---|---|
Personal skills and knowledge | ||
13 | General mountain movement | 10 |
14 | Fitness and stamina | 10 |
15 | Professionalism and personal appearance | 10 |
16 | Personal equipment | 5 |
17 | Reaction under stress | 10 |
18 | Leadership and decision making | 10 |
19 | Rope handling | 10 |
20 | Rock climbing | 20 |
21 | Belays on rock | 10 |
22 | Snow and ice climbing | 20 |
23 | Step cutting | 5 |
24 | Belays on snow and ice | 10 |
25 | Navigation | 10 |
26 | Snow safety skills | 20 |
27 | Mountain weather | 10 |
28 | Nature and environment | 10 |
Instruction | ||
---|---|---|
Subtotal | 50 | |
31 | Speech and contact with students | 10 |
32 | Structure of the lesson | 10 |
33 | Site selection | 10 |
34 | Support material and demonstration | 10 |
35 | Ability to motivate | 10 |
COURSE TOTAL | 430 | |
---|---|---|
Search and Rescue | ||
36 | Improvised cliff rescue | 10 |
37 | Crevasse extraction | 10 |
38 | Stretchers | 10 |
39 | Avalanche rescue and transceivers | 10 |
Subtotal | 40 | |
Mandatory non-assessment topics | |
---|---|
These topics must be covered in a discussion format | |
- | Radio use |
- | Aircraft safety |
- | Post-traumatic stress disorder |
- | NZMGA Harassment Policy |
- | NZMGA Accident Investigation Policy |
- | NZMGA Terrain, Supervision and Professional Guidelines |
Trainers/assessors will give a written summary with comments and recommendations.
Important information before you attend this course:
Technical Syllabus Analysis of Topics Assessment Advice Assessment and Certification